28 December 2007
Lost in Translation
PukkaLiving Guide to: TOKYO
Chaotic yet super efficient at the same time, Tokyo never ceases to amaze visitors with its grotesque neon buildings a la Blade Runner on one side; and old-fashionness of its back streets with strange shops (which never seem to have any customers), on the other. Come and get comfortably lost.
GET THERE
Turkish Airlines, JAL (Japan Airlines)
Both fly direct. Book online at thy.com or call reservations on +90.212.444 08 49 (Istanbul). For JAL, click jal.com.
SEE
If you can bear the 4 o’clock wake-up, don’t miss Tokyo’s fish market Tsukiji (of the same subway station on Hibiya line).
Or head to Koganei Park, an open-air extravaganza of old alleys and thatched farmhouses of an earlier and purer Tokyo (JR Koganei Station).
A trip to Tokyo, the world capital of manga and animation, is never complete without a visit to the curious Ghibli Museum (1-1-83 Shiromenja-ku, Mitaka-shi) dedicated to greatest animator of all, Hayao Miyazaki-even Pixar guys worship him. So popular in fact, that you must book in advance here to visit it).While at it, why not buy a copy of his iconic movie Spirited Away?
TASTE
Tokyo=sushi, right? Then go for the most popular of all, Rainbow Roll Sushi, with its delicious fushion dishes as well well the basics. (Azabu-jyuban, Minato-ku. +81. 3. 5572 7688.)
Vegetarians can choose from countless courses offered by Bon, a Fucha Ryori restaurant (a form of Zen vegetarian cooking originating in China, but developed in Japan), served in a serene and almost meditative atmosphere, tucked away in an old neighbourhood. (1-2-11 Ryusen, Taito-ku, near Iriya station on Hibiya subway line. +81. 3. 3872 0375).
For the best bar scene, head for Xex, located on the 42nd floor of Mori Atago building (2-5-1 Atago, Minato-ku, +81. 3. 5777 0065).
But save the best to the last: Higashiya Sabo, the ultimate in washi Japanese hand-made sweets, is a patisserie like no other. Try their red-bean paste mochi rice balls covered in black sesame powder, or other fruity pates and green tea blanc manger. (1-13-12 Aobadai, Meguro-ku. +81.3.5428 1717).
SHOP
Nothing beats Daikanyama district for trendy shopping. First stop, a.p.c. (11-9 Sarugaku-cho, Shibuya-ku. +81.3.5459 6505). Originally French, it’s a shop so cool, you’ll hardly notice the everyday basic products on offer, because you’ll be busy checking the interior.
For even more high-end shopping therapy, head to Tokishirazu (2-7 Uiguisudancho, Shibuya-ku. +81. 3. 5784. 1861), which sells the trendiest streetwear on planet.
On an even higher level, head to Colette meets Comme des Garcons. Strictly for shopping experts. (5-12-3 Minamiaoyama, Minato-ku. +81.3.5468 8301). If you have time, another quirky shop on the list is OriginalFake (5-3-25 Minamiaoyama, Minato-ku. +81.3.3499 3333).
Now for the best general store on planet: Tokyu HANDS is a retail heaven with so many different products that you’ll definitely find something for your home (12-18 Udagawacho, Shibuya-ku. +81.3.5489 5111). Also, don’t miss another favourite shop of Japanese aesthetics: muji, of course. Visit their shop at the newly opened, much-hyped Tokyo Midtown. For a sensible gift for those back home, we swear by yukata, a light, cotton kimono available almost everywhere in Tokyo, which is easy to pack, cheap, and can double as dressing gowns.
READ
Ryu Murakami’s In the Miso Soup. Grotesque and compelling. Like the city itself…
SLEEP
For those who’re after full-on Blade Runner experience, go for Park Hyatt (also the scene for Lost in Translation) bang in the middle of Shinjuku. (Shinjuku Park Tower, Nishi-Shinjuku +91-226.665 33 66).
But for a good ryokan experience, look no further: Shigetsu Ryokan in the quiet, pedestrianised Asakusa temple area is cosy and comfortable. (1-31-11 Asakusa,Taito-ku. +81-3-3843 2345).
If you’ve had enough of neon lights and nutty street fashion, do what Tokyoites do and head to Izu, the hot spring heaven just half-an-hour away; and check in at Arcana Izu, a bespoke resort with 16 rooms, each one boasting a cool outdoor onsen-hot bath tub (Yugashima, Izu).
.
GET THERE
Turkish Airlines, JAL (Japan Airlines)
Both fly direct. Book online at thy.com or call reservations on +90.212.444 08 49 (Istanbul). For JAL, click jal.com.
SEE
If you can bear the 4 o’clock wake-up, don’t miss Tokyo’s fish market Tsukiji (of the same subway station on Hibiya line).
Or head to Koganei Park, an open-air extravaganza of old alleys and thatched farmhouses of an earlier and purer Tokyo (JR Koganei Station).
A trip to Tokyo, the world capital of manga and animation, is never complete without a visit to the curious Ghibli Museum (1-1-83 Shiromenja-ku, Mitaka-shi) dedicated to greatest animator of all, Hayao Miyazaki-even Pixar guys worship him. So popular in fact, that you must book in advance here to visit it).While at it, why not buy a copy of his iconic movie Spirited Away?
TASTE
Tokyo=sushi, right? Then go for the most popular of all, Rainbow Roll Sushi, with its delicious fushion dishes as well well the basics. (Azabu-jyuban, Minato-ku. +81. 3. 5572 7688.)
Vegetarians can choose from countless courses offered by Bon, a Fucha Ryori restaurant (a form of Zen vegetarian cooking originating in China, but developed in Japan), served in a serene and almost meditative atmosphere, tucked away in an old neighbourhood. (1-2-11 Ryusen, Taito-ku, near Iriya station on Hibiya subway line. +81. 3. 3872 0375).
For the best bar scene, head for Xex, located on the 42nd floor of Mori Atago building (2-5-1 Atago, Minato-ku, +81. 3. 5777 0065).
But save the best to the last: Higashiya Sabo, the ultimate in washi Japanese hand-made sweets, is a patisserie like no other. Try their red-bean paste mochi rice balls covered in black sesame powder, or other fruity pates and green tea blanc manger. (1-13-12 Aobadai, Meguro-ku. +81.3.5428 1717).
SHOP
Nothing beats Daikanyama district for trendy shopping. First stop, a.p.c. (11-9 Sarugaku-cho, Shibuya-ku. +81.3.5459 6505). Originally French, it’s a shop so cool, you’ll hardly notice the everyday basic products on offer, because you’ll be busy checking the interior.
For even more high-end shopping therapy, head to Tokishirazu (2-7 Uiguisudancho, Shibuya-ku. +81. 3. 5784. 1861), which sells the trendiest streetwear on planet.
On an even higher level, head to Colette meets Comme des Garcons. Strictly for shopping experts. (5-12-3 Minamiaoyama, Minato-ku. +81.3.5468 8301). If you have time, another quirky shop on the list is OriginalFake (5-3-25 Minamiaoyama, Minato-ku. +81.3.3499 3333).
Now for the best general store on planet: Tokyu HANDS is a retail heaven with so many different products that you’ll definitely find something for your home (12-18 Udagawacho, Shibuya-ku. +81.3.5489 5111). Also, don’t miss another favourite shop of Japanese aesthetics: muji, of course. Visit their shop at the newly opened, much-hyped Tokyo Midtown. For a sensible gift for those back home, we swear by yukata, a light, cotton kimono available almost everywhere in Tokyo, which is easy to pack, cheap, and can double as dressing gowns.
READ
Ryu Murakami’s In the Miso Soup. Grotesque and compelling. Like the city itself…
SLEEP
For those who’re after full-on Blade Runner experience, go for Park Hyatt (also the scene for Lost in Translation) bang in the middle of Shinjuku. (Shinjuku Park Tower, Nishi-Shinjuku +91-226.665 33 66).
But for a good ryokan experience, look no further: Shigetsu Ryokan in the quiet, pedestrianised Asakusa temple area is cosy and comfortable. (1-31-11 Asakusa,Taito-ku. +81-3-3843 2345).
If you’ve had enough of neon lights and nutty street fashion, do what Tokyoites do and head to Izu, the hot spring heaven just half-an-hour away; and check in at Arcana Izu, a bespoke resort with 16 rooms, each one boasting a cool outdoor onsen-hot bath tub (Yugashima, Izu).
.
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