7 November 2008

Trend: Eau Naturelle Scents

When it comes to fragrance, you want what nobody else has: only colognes made by Carthusian monks would do.

Natural perfumery—blended exclusively from pure plant essences, natural oils and resins—had long been labeled as unsophisticated and lacking in luxe factor, thanks to aromatherapy-based blends’ association with hippies.

To quote perfume critic Luca Turin, although synthetics are ‘the bones of fragrance, naturals the flesh’, modern perfumes have recently been ‘all grinding bones and no juicy meat’.

Now, there’s a new wave of purist perfumes with nothing but natural, organic essences, a strong character, and appealing to those with a boho sensibility.  Plus, they come in pretty bottles, so there’s nothing granola and hippie-like about them. 

Here’s a list of the best niche and artisanal new comers with integrity, authenticity, good quality ingredients, and a smell ten times better than the synthetics.  Naturally.

-Kesu by Tsi-La: Created by Natalie Szapowalo and her sister-in-law, model Annie Morton.  A warm blend of amber and rare woods, and Fleur de Sauvage (a floral containing rose and jasmine).  Popular among fashion and design types.
-L’Eau de Jatamansi by L’Artisan Parfumeur: A woody, green and herbaceous scent with Jatamansi (wild Himalayan nard), reminding of the landscape of Himalayas.  Very sexy and heavenly.  Also includes bergamot, sage, guaiac wood, Turkish rose and papyrus.
-Usiku by Jo Wood Organics: By the former model and wife of Rolling Stone Ronnie Wood.  Means ‘night’; is a warm, refined fragrance with a bit of rock-chick edge to it with rosemary and pine needle top notes, and patchouli and cedarwood base. 
-Aftelier range by Californian Mandy Aftel; contains unusual blends like Cognac, and Pink Lotus (originally created for Madonna).
-Prima Ballerina: Created by the talented Alexandra Balahoutis, founder of Strange Invisible Perfumes, a lovely crisp rose formulation.  Very inspiring.
-Homage Attar by Omani perfumers Amouage; natural perfumery at its most luxe; ingredients associated with Arabian peninsula (frankinsence and Rose Taifi) used.  George Clooney and Kate Moss are rumoured to be fans. 
-
Red Flower Organic Perfume Oils and Concentrates: Named Guaiac, Champa and Ambrette after their exotic ingredients.
-Escale a Portofino: Limited edition by Dior; contains 16 Mediterranean essences including Sicilian lemon and bergamot from Calabria.  So sunny, you can see the luscious lemons being picked from the tree that morning.  

Going ‘eau naturelle’ never felt this posh…
Perfumes, The Guide by Luca Turin (Profile Books).
Contributed by Karen Wheeler.

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